RESTAURANT REVIEW | Kricket, Soho – the new Indian restaurant that’s the talk of the town

If you’ve frequented POP Brixton you may have tasted the incredible food Kricket has to offer. The 20-cover shipping container restaurant, created by Chef Will Bowlby and business partner Rik Campbell, adds a modern twist to classic Indian dishes.

And proving so popular, Kricket has recently expanded into Soho postcode territory with a bigger space, complete with open kitchen and counter top dining.
Opening in January 2017 on Denman Street, the vibrant eatery offers well-crafted small(ish) plates and a decent Indian-inspired cocktail list. And what’s even better? Tables of 4+ can book (hooray!)
Perched excitedly on a stool at the countertop one lunchtime, I found it hard to fault any part of the experience. From the friendly staff, to the buzzing atmosphere – everything built up perfectly to a sensationally delicious meal.

We opted for six dishes between three, which was definitely a good amount – but it’s easy to get overexcited at the options on the carefully curated menu.I do however recommend you try the butter garlic crab. It was unexpectedly warm, and its flavoursome and creamy texture was perfect spread across seaweed papad (papadum).

The samphire pakoras were also a good choice. A perfectly constructed dish, of salty samphire, lightly deep fried and doused in date and tamarind chutney and chilli garlic mayonnaise.Whenever I see mussels on a menu, I ALWAYS pick them. But it can often go either way dependent on the quality of the seafood. But these mussels were plump and fluffy, their salty flavour perfectly complimented by the Indian spices in the sauce. Once you’ve picked them all out their shells, mop up the sauce with a piece of malabar paratha (a flatbread).

If I HAD to criticise one dish it’d have to be the Keralan fried chicken. While it was certainly tasty, for me the flavours and texture were just a little bit too overpowering for my preferred palate. But if you’re a fan of fried chicken, these small bites dipped in curry leaf mayonnaise probably won’t disappoint. 

 

And the highlight of the meal? The Sulla venison rump cannot be missed in my opinion. The pieces of succulent rare meat were melt-in-your mouth good, served with burnt onion raita, Jerusalem artichoke crisps and pickled blackberries. My mouth is salivating as I’m reliving this foodie moment.
Cocktail fans are also in luck with their small selection of quirky cocktails. With ingredients from kewra water to coriander, to marmalade and cashew milk – the flavour combinations of the liquid menu is just as exciting as the food. 

When I visited, Kricket had only had its doors open for a week, and we still had to queue for a short time to get a seat – proving its already popular status.

I fully expect it to become one of Soho’s most sought after dining spots, so head here sharp-ish.

 

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